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USDA Stifling Small Farms

05-Mar-08

We recently finished The Omnivore’s Dilemma in this house, and the part that deals with corn production got me a little depressed. Michael Pollan makes some great points about food becoming a commodity, and what that means, and how our treatment of corn has brought commodity-style thinking to our other food: this egg is no different than that egg. These grapes are the same as any other grapes.

But I had no idea that the USDA’s farm bill provisions actively discouraged local producers from growing anything but commodities. It appears that like the Mafia, once you’re in the farm subsidy system, you’re in it for good. A recent article in the New York Times, written by a farmer who tried to grow vegetables on land previously destined for a commodity crop, wound up penalized far more than he’d ever imagined.

…[A] farmer who grows the forbidden fruits and vegetables on corn acreage not only has to give up his subsidy for the year on that acreage, he is also penalized the market value of the illicit crop, and runs the risk that those acres will be permanently ineligible for any subsidies in the future. (The penalties apply only to fruits and vegetables — if the farmer decides to grow another commodity crop, or even nothing at all, there’s no problem.)

The author of the article initially decided to grow veggies on that land in response to increasing public demand for locally-grown vegetables at the farmer’s market. What is wrong with the United States Department of Agriculture that they’re so heavily penalizing farmers for growing vegetables? And more importantly, why is the USDA ignoring a growing public call for local produce?

(This is yet another reason, by the way, to join your local CSA for the upcoming season.)

Welcome March

04-Mar-08

Today’s rain and warm temperatures started the ice pooling in rivulets down the street. It seems like we’ve had snow on the ground since November. The snow berms have gotten so high that they’re blocking sightlines at major intersections.

Like most of us, I’ve got a touch of the plague that’s been going around, and a generous helping of the winter blahs. I’ve also been staying out of the kitchen. Nothing is inspiring, and I’m too exhausted to cook anyway. I’ve been propping myself up with decongestant and herbal tea. While running an errand to the post office today, under an disturbingly quiet, grey sky, I found myself craving sunlight and warmth like… well, like any New Englander would as we near the tail end of a particularly long, grey, wet winter.

Here’s how much I want the warmer temperatures to come: I’ve been craving fiddleheads, those wild-gathered mucilaginous ferns that pop up in the fields (and locavore restaurants) every year come spring. I don’t even like fiddleheads! They just taste like spring to me, bitter and earthy and hardy.

And baby greens! I have no great love for salads, but I’m ready to eat whatever peeks its leaves out of the ground first, just to taste spring.

Come on, come on… melt already.

What do you crave this time of year?

Tidbits

26-Feb-08

Well, hello there. It’s been a while. I unexpectedly wound up taking some of January and most of February off from writing on this blog. But that’s really okay as far as I’m concerned; February is not exactly the best month to wax poetic about local produce.

Tidbit #1:
Speaking of waxing poetic about local produce, I really want a blueberry rake in preparation for this summer. Anyone have one they want to sell, or give away?

Tidbit #2: I turned thirty! And so we had a lovely potluck dinner. My contribution: meatloaf muffins (yum!) and savory-sweet things in whole wheat phyllo dough. Recipes forthcoming, but in the meantime, here’s a lovely picture of the pretty phyllo dough things.

IMG_1060

Tidbit #3: Speaking of phyllo dough, there’s a waitress at a local Greek restaurant who has the most wonderfully nasal accent. Every time I try to remember whether it’s pronounced “FIE-lo” or “FEE-lo,” I think of Angela and remember to say “FEE-lo.”

Tidbit #4: Details magazine has apparently just named Becky’s Diner (”Nothin’ Finah!”) as one of the best breakfast spots in America. I’ve got nothing against Becky’s — the food is good, and cheap, and it’s a good place to take out-of-towners — but there are much better breakfast places in Portland. For inspiration, check out my friend Dan’s regular column, The Breakfast Serial, over at The Bollard.

Tidbit #5: Farmer Justin has opened for business. Support local agriculture! Join a CSA! Better, join his CSA. You’ll be in great company, and you might even see me up at the farm.

The Portland Food Map

19-Jan-08

insidefood_review_portlandf.jpgI was alerted to this a while back: The Portland Food Map provides a great way to visualize a lot, and I mean a lot, of food resources here in Maine’s largest city. Among other things, the list of ethnic markets alone is worth the visit. I had no idea there were so many in this small city.

(I’ve been hibernating a bit, as befits January. There will be a glorious return to cookery very soon.)

The Kindness of Strangers

15-Jan-08

On days like today, I feel a little bit like Blanche DuBois in Streetcar Named Desire. Say it with me, kids, full of languorous summer heat and a slow Southern drawl:

Ah’ve always depaynded upon the kaindness… of strayngers.

My little VW Golf is a great city car, in the summer. I can haul most of what I need to haul, and it’s great on gasoline. Recently, it’s had the pleasure to carry two massage tables at once, complete with bags full of sheets and blankets, back and forth to Waldoboro with my carpool buddy riding in the passenger seat. But boy, is it just not that great in the snow.

The 13 inches that fell yesterday were powdery and light, almost like fake snow. Skiiers should be happy. So should my friend who’s visiting Maine from Colorado and had been bemoaning the lack of good skiing. When I went down to the snow ban lots near the beach this morning, most cars were already out, and one guy about my age was swiping snow off of his little Honda in big sweeping motions of his arm. He pulled out of his spot without even the slightest bit of shovelling.

I got in my little Golf and did not move. The front wheel had caught some ice, and was spinning like mad.

This complete stranger came over and helped out with a dig, a couple of pushes, and I was free.

And you know what’s great? This happens all the time. I’ve had the pleasure to help out my neighbors too, people I’ve never met and may never see again.

I love this town.

Brunch at the Farm, with Carrot Muffins

08-Jan-08

Making small pancakesSunday was warmer, but still grey. The farmer invited us to come have brunch with him. On the menu: spinach fritatta, little pancakes made in a biscuit pan, and carrot muffins I’d whipped up that morning. And coffee, of course, strong and sweet.

We wrapped ourselves up in blankets and discussed exotic fruits, slaughtering chickens, CSA distributions, and the ninja deer who ate the remaning snow-covered kale.

Yes, ninja deer.

And we ate some muffins.

Carrot-Oat-Maple Muffins

Shredding carrots is obnoxious. I recommend using a mini-prep or food chopper to do the job. We have a mini-prep, but I’ve discovered that my stick blender’s chopper attachment does an equal if not better job, takes up less counter space, and is easier to clean. Anyone in the Portland area want our old mini-prep?

Carrot-Oat Muffins

Wet ingredients:
2 c. shredded carrots
2 eggs, slightly beaten
1/4 c. canola oil
3/4 c. maple syrup
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract

Dry ingredients:
3/4 c. all-purpose flour
3/4 c. whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 c. rolled oats
1/4 c. oat bran
1/4 c. ground flaxseed
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 T. cinnamon
1 tsp. ground ginger

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees, and spray oil a muffin tin.

In a large bowl, mix together all of the wet ingredients. In a medium bowl, combine all of the dry ingredients. Pour dry on top of wet, and stir until just combined, being careful not to overmi. It will seem wetter than muffin batters you might be used to.

Spoon the batter into 12 muffin cups. Bake for 22-25 minutes, until puffed and golden brown, and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean.

Cool on a wire rack, and feed to your favorite farmer.

Roasted Garlic White Bean Dip

07-Jan-08

Roasted Garlic White Bean Dip on Homemade Bread
We went to a potluck and clothing swap hosted by our downstairs neighbors. What lovely people, what a wonderful time! The highlight for me was finding a good home for some of my old “dress-up” clothes, stuff that I used to wear out clubbing. We don’t really go clubbing anymore.

I’d whipped up some whole-wheat baguettes to bring, and thought a garlicky spread would be great to go on top. This is a Blueberries and Lobster original. It’s a little like hummus, but with a decidedly Italian flavor. It’s delicious, frugal, and uses ingredients I tend to keep on hand.

Roasted Garlic White Bean Dip

1 c. dry navy beans
1 whole bulb garlic
2 T. dried, crushed rosemary
Kosher salt
1-2 T. freshly ground black pepper
1 T. crushed red pepper flakes
1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil

Put the beans in a medium-large pot, and add enough water to cover by 1-2″. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to a simmer. Allow beans to simmer 45-60 minutes, until tender but not mushy.

Meanwhile, roast the garlic. (I roasted it while I was preheating the oven.) Chop off the papery top of the bulb to expose the cloves. Wrap a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil around the garlic most of the way. Drizzle a little regular olive oil on top. Twist the aluminum foil tightly around the top of the garlic, and roast in a 350 degree oven for about 30-45 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool enough to handle.

Drain the beans, reserving about 1/4 c. of the liquid. Put that back into the pot with the beans, along with a big pinch of kosher salt, the pepper, the rosemary, and the red pepper flakes. Mix well.

Begin pureeing with a stick blender. Drizzle in the extra virgin olive oil while blending, to form an emulsion.

Serve at room temperature.

Friday Recipe Roundup: Alton Brown Edition

04-Jan-08

Via Slashfood comes some great news today: Alton Brown has signed on for another three years with Food Network. This is great news! His simple, classic approach to food has made cooking good food from real ingredients a reality for me. I hope we have his quirky, blonde brand of cooking humor in full color for many years to come.

Today’s link fest: some of my favorite AB recipes.

  • Pantry Friendly Tomato Sauce. A tomato sauce that tastes great and doesn’t require tomatoes to be in season.
  • Granola. This recipe got me making my own granola. I don’t follow the recipe (or any recipe, really) anymore, but it’s a great staple.
  • Savory Polenta. A great basic. The recipe that got me making polenta.
  • Turbo Hummus, in which my man Alton substitutes peanut butter for the tahini. Well played, my friend, and delicious.
  • Pan Seared Ribeye. More of a technique than a recipe, this is my favorite way to cook steak now.
  • Beet Slaw. Don’t be afraid of fresh beets. They are delicious!
  • Vlad’s Very Garlicky Greens. A complex garlic flavor makes for a great default thing to do with cooking greens.
  • Sweet Potato Pie. A simple Southern classic from my favorite Southern boy.

As I write this, I’m watching his Great Balls of Meat episode. Excuse me, I have to go now, and ponder meatballs.

Simplest Chicken Soup

03-Jan-08

Everyone knows how to make chicken soup, right?

Wrong, wrong, wrong. If everyone knew how easy this was, why on earth would there be cans of salt lining grocery shelves, passing themselves off as “chicken soup?” No thanks.

I used the dark meat leftovers from Sunday’s roast chicken. The legs and thighs were slightly undercooked, which meant that they were otherwise destined for the microwave. I suspected this use would be far more delicious, and I was right. If you don’t have homemade chicken stock, use the low-salt version from the grocery store. And be sure to use stock, not broth! They are not the same thing at all.

You could also substitute noodles or rice for the potatoes if that’s what you’re into. (Warning: link is hilarious and food-related, but is not particularly work-safe without headphones.)

What’s your favorite chicken soup recipe? Share it in the comments.

Simplest Chicken Soup

For the mirepoix:
1 medium-small onion
1 carrot
1 rib celery

For the soup:
Olive oil
3 cloves garlic, smashed and minced. (optional, but delicious. I wouldn’t use more than 3 cloves, though.)
Dark meat chicken, cooked, about 1 1/2 - 2 c.
3 carrots, cut into thick coins
2 potatoes, medium dice
Chicken stock, 1 c.
4 c. water
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper, more than you think you’ll want
Rosemary, dried, about 1 T.
Oregano, dried, about 1 T.

Dice the mirepoix ingredients very small. Heat about 1-2 T. olive oil in a soup pot over medium-low heat, stir in the mirepoix, and sprinkle with a little Kosher salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions start to become translucent.

Meanwhile, shred, chop, and otherwise prepare the other ingredients. Add the garlic first, stirring so that it doesn’t burn. Then add the chicken. If it is undercooked, as mine was, give this a few minutes to heat through. Then add the potatoes, carrots, and spices, to taste.

Add in the chicken stock and water. Bring to a low boil, then reduce heat to a low simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender.

Makes about 4 generous servings.

Pumpkin-Maple Cookies for the New Year

02-Jan-08

We have now eaten all of the cookies, brownies, pecan toffees, butterscotch balls, chocolate Santas, and miniature candy canes in the house. The holidays are officially over, and I’m going through sugar withdrawal.

We had most of a can of pumpkin puree in the fridge, left over from eggless muffins. Because I was lazy and running late that morning, I had simply tossed the open can into the fridge. A year living in the co-op put the fear of botulism in me, so it was clear that I needed to use up that pumpkin puree right quick. What an excellent excuse to create more baked goods.

Pumpkin plus KitchenAid equals AwesomeThese little cookies are very, very good. They’re light and a little spongy, more like a cake or quickbread than a cookie. They’re sweet enough to satisfy a craving, but not so sweet that you’ll go into a diabetic coma.

I was almost hoping for something sweeter, so I said to Barb: “I think they’d be better with a little cream cheese frosting.”

She replied: “I think they’d be better in me.”

… and then half of the cookies were gone.

If you keep your butter in the freezer like I do, you can grate the frozen butter on a box grater, and shorten the time for the butter to come to room temperature. It’ll still take a while, though, so be patient. (I was not patient, and a few cookies came out with little lumps of butter. Not the worst fate in the world, but these aren’t really supposed to be shortbread or pie crust.)


Pumpkin-Maple Cookies

Pumpkin-Maple Cookies

Adapted from Moosewood New Classics

Makes roughly 2 1/2 dozen 2″ diameter cookies.

1 c. butter, at room temperature
1/2 c. sugar
1/2 c. maple syrup
1 c. pumpkin puree
1 egg
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 c. all-purpose flour
1/2 c. whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 c. rolled oats
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp. freshly ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp. salt

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Cream together the butter and sugar. Add the maple syrup, pumpkin, egg, and vanilla, and mix until well blended. Stir together the remaining ingredients, and add to the bowl. Stir well to form a soft batter.

Drop by small teaspoonfuls onto a large baking sheet covered in parchment paper, allowing plenty of space for the cookies to spread. Bake for 12-15 minutes, until the cookies are very slightly brown on the bottom. Cook briefly on the pan, then transfer to a wire rack.